Kyoto, the ancient capital of Japan. Known for golden temples...
exotic geisha...
and amazing food...
Kyoto cuisine has a reputation for being delicate and refined. Kaiseki Ryori restaurants are know for turning down Michelin stars for fear of cheapening their image. Despite this refined background, Kyoto Ramen is geared for those with less delicate palates.
According to legend (and the Ramen Museum in Yohama), Kyoto Ramen traces its roots back to a Ramen stall started near Kyoto station back in 1938. The owner hailed from Zhejiang, China and grew the business into a successful shop called Shinpuku Saikan (新福菜館) that exists to this day. They are know for producing a thick looking Shoyu Dobutsu-kei (probably Chicken, Tonkotsu, or a blend of both).
The heavy looking broth is to highlight the Kyo-yasai (Kyoto grown vegetables). Kyoto-ites are extremely proud of their local produce, borderline stuck-up even. Shimpuku Saikan uses a thin bean sprout and Kujo Negi (Kyoto scallions ??) as standard toppings.
The other day I was stumbling around Shinjuku and came across a place
claiming to serve Kyoto Ramen called Yottekoya. I'm too poor to visit Kyoto these days so
I figured this would be my best chance to try it. Yottekoya is a
mediocre chain shop that in my drunken stupor didn't realize I'd visited
before.
The noren (cloth sign above the door) says Kyoto Yatai Aji Ramen. "Yatai
Aji" is a clear nod toward Shinpuku Saikan's roots as a Yatai shop.
The soup here is Shoyu with Chicken/Tonkotsu blend. Many Kyoto Ramen shops also sprinkle Se-Abura (pork back fat) to add depth. The picture is a little blurry but Yottekoya uses this technique. They also use the thin type of bean sprouts, which are hidden here by the volume of chopped scallions. Overall OK, but it's not the kind of bowl to go out of your way for. Yottekoya's best quality is that they are open late.
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